This post is sponsored by Touchstone Home Products
When we first moved into this home, I was excited to add a fireplace to our bedroom, but my first attempt was… let’s just say, beginner DIY at best. The structure wasn’t as solid as it needed to be, and over time, cracks and shifting made it obvious I’d have to rebuild.
Fast forward a few years and many DIY projects later, I knew I could create something stronger, sleeker, and more elevated. So when Touchstone Home Products
agreed to partner with me to feature their Sideline Elite 50″ electric fireplace, I jumped at the chance to show you how approachable this kind of project can be, even if you’re relatively new to building.
Why I Chose the Sideline Elite 50″
This recessed, smart-enabled electric fireplace is modern, affordable, and easy to install. You can hardwire or plug it in, choose from multiple flame colors, and swap between crystals and logs. I love the natural look of the full-width log set, and controlling it from an app is a game-changer for cozy nights in.
Below, I’ll walk you through the exact process I used, broken into clear, beginner-friendly steps, so you can tackle your own custom fireplace wall.
Before You Start: Tools & Materials
- 2×4 studs (enough to frame your surround)
- Drywall (sheetrock)
- Drywall screws & drill
- Measuring tape & level
- Circular saw or miter saw
- Joint compound (or feather finish plaster)
- Corner bead or vinyl edge banding
- Masonry paint (I used a slightly lighter tint of my wall color for a subtle contrast)
- Touchstone Sideline Elite 50″ Electric Fireplace
- Optional: soundbar or built-in shelf framing
- Safety gear (gloves, goggles, mask)
I created a post over on my LTK that has everything linked for you, just click the image below and it will take you straight there to shop and get everything you need.
Step 1: Demo the Old Fireplace (if you have one)
If you’re starting fresh, you can skip this step. But for me, removing the old surround was key. My first build lacked a solid foundation — the studs weren’t properly anchored, and the plywood shifted as the house settled.
Pro Tip: Take your time here. Salvage 2×4 pieces if they’re still in good shape; you can reuse them for blocking and supports.
Step 2: Plan & Measure for a Strong Frame
Measure the height and width of the wall where the fireplace will go. Plan for:
- Bottom support platform (for the fireplace to rest on)
- Vertical studs spaced ~16″ apart for strength
- Any extra framing for soundbars, TVs, or shelves above the fireplace
I anchored new 2×4 studs directly to the existing wall studs — this creates a rock-solid base and keeps everything aligned.
Step 3: Build the Surround & Face Frame
- Build side frames and secure them to your new studs.
- Add plenty of horizontal blocking (I may have gone overboard, but I love knowing I can hang art or add features later).
- Create the opening for the fireplace insert. The Sideline Elite needs 6″ depth, so check your model’s manual for clearance.
If you’re adding a soundbar or TV above, frame those openings now.
Step 4: Test-Fit the Fireplace
Before closing the wall, slide your Sideline Elite 50″ into place to check fit and centering, especially if you’re aligning it with a TV above.
Tip: The Sideline Elite can be plugged in or hardwired. Decide now which setup works for you. You'll want to determine this, so if you decide to hardwire, you can take the necessary steps to do that now.
I chose to plug mine in because we had already pre-wired for an outlet further down on the wall when we built our home, so it didn't require any additional steps for me.
The fireplace is the only thing plugged into this particular outlet, and it's right in the center of the opening where the fireplace will fit into the structure that we're building.
Step 5: Install Drywall & Edge Banding
Cover the frame with drywall, cutting out openings for the fireplace, soundbar, and outlets as needed. I started at the bottom so the lower sheet could help support the top.
Add vinyl edge banding or corner bead to create smooth, rounded corners — this gives a polished, built-in look.
If you've never worked with drywall before, it's messy. You'll want to practice cutting your pieces outside so you don't spread a lot of dust into your area.
It took me a couple of swipes down the drywall to get my technique down.
You only truly need a box cutter and a straight edge to ensure you don't get jagged edges, as shown above.
Those edges came from me using my oscillating tool, which was overkill.
Take your time, measure twice, and cut once, and you'll be fine.
Step 6: Tape, Mud & Plaster
- Tape seams and screw holes with joint compound.
- Once dry, add your finish layer. I used a lightweight concrete plaster (feather finish) for an organic, hand-troweled look.
- Sand smooth once dry.
This is where your fireplace may start to take on a different shape from mine. I wanted an organic feel to my fireplace, one that mimicked the texture of plaster, rich in imperfections.
In this step, I taped my seams and used drywall spackle to hold them in place, performing minimal sanding.
To achieve the organic look I used a feather finish, that is normally used as an underlayment to lay tile on floors. I chose this finish because it didn't require as much prep work as working with plaster itself, allowing me to jump right into applying the feather finish and saving my hands from a lot of additional work, such as priming.
This finish, however, added time to the project because I had to apply it and allow it to dry.
We're dealing with a 10-foot-tall wall, so we had a lot of finish to apply, and that took a couple of days to be completely set and ready for paint.
While the application of the feather finish is not complicated, this step does require time, as you'll need to mix the feather finish in small batches since it sets extremely quickly. I'm talking within a matter of 15 minutes or so in your bucket, so the trick is to mix in small batches and move fast.
Once you've applied the feather finish on the drywall, you'll want to give it time to dry. I gave mine 48 hours so I could ensure the concrete was all set up and ready to receive paint.
Step 7: Paint & Style
I painted the surround with masonry paint at 50% strength of my wall color. This subtle contrast keeps it interesting without feeling harsh.
Once dry, slide the Sideline Elite 50″ back into place, plug it in, and enjoy! I styled mine with a TV above and a sleek soundbar shelf below for a polished, luxe vibe.
Why I Recommend the Touchstone Sideline Elite 50″
- Beyond its fast shipping (mine arrived in days!) and modern design, the Sideline Elite is:
- Customizable: choose flame colors, ember media, and heat settings
- Smart-enabled: control via app or remote
- Flexible: plug-in or hardwire
- Available in multiple sizes: from 36″ up to over 80″
If you’re dreaming of a statement fireplace that feels built-in but don’t want the cost of a contractor, this model is an excellent choice.
Check out the Sideline Elite 50″ here
This project took me a week (working off and on), but you could easily complete it faster if you use something like shiplap as the surround. However, if you want this organic look, plan for about a week-long project.
The key is a strong frame; once that’s in place, the rest is straightforward.
If you’re on the fence about adding a fireplace, I hope this breakdown shows you that it’s doable, even for a beginner DIYer. And if you get stuck, drop your questions in the comments below. I’d love to help!
